The Heritage Coast of Suffolk in England

The county of Suffolk is in the region of Eastern England known as East Anglia. A predominantly rural county, the coastline of Suffolk includes the port of Felixstowe at the southern end and the once busy fishing port of Lowestoft further north near the border with neighbouring county Norfolk. Between these two towns lies a more tranquil stretch of coastline dotted with peaceful villages and small towns known as the Heritage Coast.

Our journey up the coast starts at Orford, a pretty village on the River Ore. Formerly a sea port in the middle ages, the village is now some distance from the sea due to silting up of the neaby River Ore. A number of hotels, pubs, shops and places to eat now comprise the bulk of village life here. Orford also has a small castle. Amongst the places to eat are the excellent Butley Orford Oysterage which serves oysters and smoked seafood, all caught locally.

Lying very close to Orford but less well known is Orford Ness. Thought to be the largest shingle spit in Europe, the 10 miles long spit now protects Orford from the sea and was used by the Ministry of Defence as a base for testing weapons and other military procedures from 1913, throughout the Second World War and well into the Cold War era in the 1970’s. All military activity there has now ceased and in 1993 the site was taken over by The National Trust, an organisation dedicated to preserving natural and historic sites. Access to the Ness can only be gained by ferry, departing from Orford Quay between April and October. The environment is now a mixture of vegetation and the remains of former military buildings, some of which are damaged. Overall the site makes an interesting visit with the unique and somewhat bleak environment, especially for photographers. It should be noted that some areas of the Ness are out of bounds due to the possibility of unexploded weapons or dangerous buildings.

The small town of Aldeburgh is a wonderful example of that increasingly rare place nowadays – a completely unspoilt English coastal town. There is no pier, no candyfloss, no amusement arcade and none of the garish accompaniments common to many seaside resorts in England. Despite having made few concessions to the modern age, Aldeburgh contains all the ingredients necessary for a great break by the sea.

Crag Path, the main promenade in town runs the length of the sloping pebble beach. Guesthouses, an assortment of pastel coloured residential houses and a few hotels are situated on Crag Path including the excellent Brudenell Hotel which is literally a stones throw from the beach. Of particular interest on Crag Path is a tiny house known locally as “The Dolls House” due to its tiny size. The beach houses an old building now converted to a photographic gallery at one end, while at the other a number of fishermen’s huts sell local fish caught daily. Also of great interest is the Moot Hall, a half timbered building dating from the 16^th century. The Moot Hall is now a museum and used to stand in the middle of town. Due to coastal erosion and encroachment of the sea, it now lies close to the beach.

For a relatively small town Aldeburgh has no shortage of good restaurants, most of which are situated on the High Street set back a short distance from the beach. Shopping is good here with small stores selling gifts, books, clothes, arts and other items of interest. Fish and chips, perhaps the most famous English culinary dish of all time, can be sampled from a couple of takeaway shops. Judging by the queues that form before opening time, the food is well worth eating. In good weather it’s easy to find a place to sit on the sea wall by the beach so you can enjoy your fish and chips whilst watching the North Sea waves crash against the shore.

Aldeburgh has cultural connotations for many people, especially in the annual Aldeburgh Festival which occurs each June. Started by the composer and former Aldeburgh resident Benjamin Britten, the festival now encompasses music, drama, poetry and art. Although it started at Aldeburgh, most events at the festival now take place at Snape Maltings a few miles away. A converted riverside former granary warehouse, Snape Maltings now houses a performance venue in attractive surroundings. Shops and restaurants are also located at Snape, which makes an interesting trip all year round.

Aldeburgh also has a tiny independent cinema on the High Street. Little in the way of traffic passes through the town after the shops close and Aldeburgh makes an ideal place to relax for a few days.

A few miles up the coast from Aldeburgh lies the village of Thorpeness. The village is unusual for having been purpose built as a holiday resort in the early 20^th century. Most of the houses were built by a wealthy Scot named Glencairn Stuart Ogilvie who wanted to provide holiday accommodation for his friends. A country club, golf course and swimming pool were also built. One of the most unusual features of Thorpeness is its former water tower, a five storey building which was covered in cladding to resemble a house in a bid to conceal its true usage. With the coming of mains water to Thorpeness in the 1970’s, the water tank became obsolete and the building was converted to holiday accommodation.

Further up the coast is a place with a fascinating story to tell. Eight hundred years ago Dunwich was the capital of East Anglia and one of the largest ports in Eastern England. All that remains of the former city today are a pub, a few houses and the remains of a priory because most of the city now lies under the sea. In 1286 a great storm destroyed many of its buildings and swept them out to sea. A number of further storms over the next 200 years gradually destroyed more and more buildings until finally the entire city was lost to coastal erosion. The current cliff tops at Dunwich used to be a mile from the sea and local legend has it that rolling church bells can be heard under the waves at night. Dunwich Heath nearby is a cliff top beauty spot now run by the National Trust.

The resort of Southwold is similar to Aldeburgh in many aspects but also has some differences. In common with its neighbour further south, Southwold has a pleasant and quiet High Street with a number of attractive shops, pubs, restaurants and hotels. Southwold is somewhat larger however and also has a pier, a lighthouse and a number of beach huts. The beach at Southwold is sandy and an expanse of green on the cliff tops makes for a pleasant walk. Southwold also has a small cinema called the Electric Picture Palace. The writer George Orwell lived in Southwold with his parents during his younger days.

Across the river Blyth from Southwold lies the village of Walberswick, which can be reached on foot by a bridge or by ferry from Southwold. Walberswick is popular with holidaymakers, many of whom come for the sailing opportunities, with many boats moored on the riverbank. An annual crabbing competition takes place in the village. A number of restaurants, pubs, gift shops and galleries serve the tourist trade. The area around Walberswick has a large expanse of heath and marshland and is designated as an area of outstanding natural beauty.

Close by is the village of Blythburgh which also lies on the river Blyth. The river is tidal in this area and has breached the sea walls over the years creating a large tidal lagoon called Blythburgh Water which attracts great numbers of birds. Boat trips to Blythburgh run from Southwold harbour, allowing visitors to take in the many varieties of birds en route.

Further north along the coast from Southwold the Heritage Coast ends as we near the fishing port of Lowestoft. Suffolk affords visitors a taste of peace and quiet amongst these idyllic small towns and villages on England’s east coast.